Hand Block Printing: A Timeless Craft in Sanganeri and Ajrakh Traditions

Hand block printing, a centuries-old textile art, holds an enduring place in India’s rich cultural heritage. Among the many styles of this craft, two of the most renowned are the Sanganeri printing from the village Sanganer, near Jaipur, Rajasthan, and the Ajrakh printing from the village Ajrakhpur, near Kutch, Gujarat. These distinct styles reflect not only the regions’ historical and cultural identity but also the unparalleled skill and artistry of the communities that sustain them.

The History

Hand block printing is believed to have originated in India as early as the 12th century, though it flourished under the Mughal Empire in the 16th and 17th centuries. Rajasthan, particularly Jaipur, became a major center for the craft. The Sanganeri technique, named after the village of Sanganer, rose to prominence due to the region’s proximity to royal patronage, its access to clean water from the Saraswati River, and its vibrant trading routes.

Simultaneously, Ajrakh block printing has ancient roots tracing back to the Indus Valley civilization. Ajrakh’s intricate geometric patterns and earthy colors have been linked to the nomadic communities of Sindh, who migrated to Kutch centuries ago. The word “Ajrakh” comes from the Arabic word azrakh, which means “indigo”, one of the most common colors used in Ajrakh prints.

The Communities Behind the Craft

In Jaipur, the Chhipa community, traditionally known for dyeing and printing fabrics, became custodians of Sanganeri block printing. These artisans passed down their skills through generations, perfecting the delicate floral motifs and vibrant colors that Sanganeri printing is known for today. Similarly, in Kutch, the Khatri community has been the primary bearers of the Ajrakh tradition, combining natural dyes with deep-rooted spiritual significance. Ajrakh is more than just fabric printing for the Khatris. It is a cultural expression tied to the region’s unique desert landscape.

The Process and Intricacies

Both Sanganeri and Ajrakh block printing share a foundation of complex craftsmanship and precision.

Sanganeri prints are typically distinguished by their use of delicate floral motifs, including butis (small designs) and jaal (web-like patterns). The process begins with carving intricate designs onto wooden blocks. The blocks are dipped into natural or vegetable dyes and pressed onto the fabric with meticulous care. Each color in the design requires a separate block, making multi-colored prints a labor-intensive process. Sanganeri prints are typically known for their vibrant colors, like reds, blues, and yellows, against white or pastel backgrounds.

Ajrakh printing, in contrast, is known for its geometric and symmetrical patterns. The process is much more elaborate, often involving up to 16 steps, including dyeing, resist printing, and washing. Natural dyes, like indigo, madder, and pomegranate rind, create the characteristic deep blue, black, and red hues. The fabric is repeatedly washed and dyed, with layers of color built up over time. The resist printing method ensures that specific parts of the fabric resist the dye, resulting in the intricate motifs characteristic of Ajrakh textiles. The complexity of the Ajrakh process can span several weeks, with each step aligning the design perfectly.

At House of Shiroz, we embrace the beauty and legacy of these ancient hand block printing techniques, integrating them into contemporary, smart wear for the modern woman. In doing so, we create fashion that reflects both the past and the future, offering a thoughtful balance of artisanal heritage and contemporary style.